Johnson Flywheel puller

[Nomad55]

Anyone have a puller that I could beg, borrow or steal? Or have a backyard approach? Have gun will travel to pick up.:D

[McSkagit Tim Jones]

Hello from Friday Harbor, What size motor are you wanting to remove the flywheel? I have a puller that I could loan you. You may have to supply your own bolts (3) for the puller. I could mail it to you and pick it up some time in the future then you could show me your Skagit..... or bring it with when you visit for 31 launch day....

Tim (McSkagit)

[Tim_Mattson]

Melanie,
I have the basic puller as well but a little far south for you.
It is possible to pry up on the flywheel in 2-3 places as you strike the center of the driveshaft(with nut mostly on to save threads).
I`ve had one recently leave the center hub as it pulled the alum cast right off of stem.
You usually have to put a "Load" on the wheel ,then apply a swift blow to get it to make that "creak" of success.
Treat it like a steering wheel and some mental focus.
Once you pop it off ,clean up the SS with some 220-320 sandpaper.
Goodluck,
TimM
ps if you use the puller,get some good bolts to pull with as zinc plated cheap ones can snap right off.Tapping the threads will let them screw down and grip well.

[Nomad55]

McSkagit, I guess I should have included the size and models. I have a set of twins 35hp,electric start Johnsons that are original to the Ye Old McChesney as seen in my album. No photos of engines though.Chuck B. suggested a harmonic balancer removal tool, which I do have,not sure why I didn't think of that so will be giving that a try in a while. Also in my album are photos of [B]OURSkagit, you might recognize her and you can bet I'll be there for the launch:D Thanks for the reply and may be back in touch if need be.

[Nomad55]

Goodluck,
TimM
ps if you use the puller,get some good bolts to pull with as zinc plated cheap ones can snap right off.Tapping the threads will let them screw down and grip well.


Now you tell me.:D Actully I've had them bend. I was using a steering wheel puller but I couldn't get the puller frame snug to the flywheel so they would bend. Mental focus, much too late for that to happen.:D Thanks guys

[Nomad55]

If you are sitting on the fence as to what benefits you get with your paid admission to this excellent forum and the outstanding people associated with it, reread these post and stop sitting on that fence and join in on the fun. It's like big think tank for boaters.:D

[Tim_Mattson]

Melanie,
Still waiting for my hands to "wake up" this morning......too much sanding and wrenching.
I bet you`ll need a combination of the puller putting a load on the hub,then using a pair of Flat/pry bars to also exrt some force on the flywheel.
That old one will have a brass (or?)hub cast into the alum that can come apart if pull off center at all.
Penetrant isn`t usually good to put near the top crankcase seal but that may be in order too,with a freezing type mixed with the Fluid Film or Tri-Flow wonderfluids.I`d dribble a little in and give it a day or two.
I also use a pair of ball peens on the nut,one to strike the other which delivers a great deal of force.
I used a cargo ratchet strap to pull one recently,pulling down on two flatbars while I used my knee on a 3rd one closest to me......Plus the puller!
That one made a real creak on success.
The SS was Black under the nut,maybe dried grease or.......
TM

[McSkagit Tim Jones]

AS far as the puller bolts used to thread in the flywheel, I recommend grade 8's. Are the threaded holes in the flywheel fine thread? I usually warm the hub of the flywheel up a little with a propane torch before applying tension. A little heat is usually all that is needed on tapered shafts. One of the pullers I have has grade 8 shoulder bolts. The shoulder contacts the flywheel giving extra stability to the bolt.

Be sure the tapered shaft and flywheel are dry (no oil) on reassembly.

McSkagit