Rub Rail on a Dorsett

[Lyle]

Is there any tips or secrets for removing this.. (see Photo) I don't want to come at it with a chisel and a sledge hammer... Just kidding... I need to remove it in order to do a proper repair on some cracks and I would like to remove the splash well to get at the transom.

[Helmar]

Is there any tips or secrets for removing this.. (see Photo) I don't want to come at it with a chisel and a sledge hammer... Just kidding... I need to remove it in order to do a proper repair on some cracks and I would like to remove the splash well to get at the transom.

I would use a draw knife to remove the caulking/adhesive..
To remove the splashwell, I plan on doing this to mine.

[Kelly]

Helmar you've been planning on doing that for a couple of years now, get on it! I can only eat so much of this stuff waiting

[Lyle]

Rub Rail came off easy and in one piece. Not sure if I can reuse it as it is cracked in a few places. Looks like the ran a fiberglass strip along the topside of the rail. That popped of neat and clean.

I would use a draw knife to remove the caulking/adhesive..
To remove the splashwell, I plan on doing this to mine.

I like where those cuts fall, I am going to copy them if you don't mind.

[Lyle]

I guess someone used staples to keep the two halves together?? also an interesting 3 piece transom.


I am officially 0-2 No finished boats and 2 cut up boats.

[Helmar]

I guess someone used staples to keep the two halves together?? also an interesting 3 piece transom.


I am officially 0-2 No finished boats and 2 cut up boats.

I am down to 5 boats with only one running at the moment. It has not been taken out this year and I am only about 2 miles from Fern Ridge lake.
Got way to much going on with the move and all to even get close to the running one.

This winter I hope to get two of them ready for next year. The Uniflite will be easy, the Skagit 20 will take a little more work, mostly on the trailer but should be ready as well.

So, nothing was launched this year which is sad......I know how you feel...

[Lyle]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dorsett-boat...6c09aa&vxp=mtr

Pair (left and right) 1959 Dorsett run-about rear trim. Transom corner pieces, handles.
From a Belmont. Would be the same for the El Dorado. And possibly the larger run-abouts.

will these fit on my catalina?

[Lyle]

Will these fit on my Catalina?

My Answer arrived in the mail -and it is Nope, they don't fit, a little modification and they would fit but I don't think it would be right.

Anyone have some Dorsett Catalina Transom handles they want to trade? Maybe a Dorsett emblem or something Catalina related ?

" Pair (left and right) 1959 Dorsett run-about rear trim. Transom corner pieces, handles. From a Belmont. Would be the same for the El Dorado. And possibly the larger run-abouts. "

[Lyle]

Update:
I have discovered in tear down that this is not her first rodeo and I have a ton of repair work to do before sea trials
I am starting the grind process. Boat has been gutted and now is almost ready for "the grind". I am going to put filters on the windows to keep the dust contained as much as possible to the booth. I am just going to focus on the inside first. So its clean, fresh and I have a good solid base to work with.

This is how I see it going: Grind - clean - layup - new interior glass on hull - transom - stringers - deck - Exterior patching and cosmetics - final deck install - TBD later as I progress.

Going to layup new glass before I install the stringers but first I have to remove all the old patches and build up. Some patches just popped right off as seen in the below photo.

[Skagit Hideaway]

Do you have the hull supported well enough to avoid it warping under its own weight sans stringers and transom?

[Lyle]

keel is supported in 4 places and i left the cabin deck in place for support. The keel does not move when i walk on it. opinion?

[Helmar]

That will do it for sure....Sorry, I have been More than busy with getting the new shop done and ready to move into.

Once done and moved in, I will have room for Three projects at a time.

On the Dorsett I have, I was going to go a step farther with the stringer replacement. I was going to Glass with Heavy roving fiberglass and once the wood went away, would end up with Fiberglass stringers.

For the stringers, are you comfortable with doing those ?
I would get the cabin bulkhead in and the transom in as you will want to join the stringers to those.

The hardest part is finding the edges of sanded off, but then again, I have Lowered some floors and raised some.

Here is my method.. Find were the Top of the floor was.
Then setup the laser to shoot across the Bottom of the floor. (If your going to Foam, you can get away with 1/2" floor with glass matting on the top, if no foaming, I would use 5/8" covered with glass matting)
Then I use some Door Skin (used to be about 10 to 12 bucks a sheet, rip it in 2" x 8' lengths) Then I use a hot glue gun and acquire Bunch of pop cycle sticks, from a dollar store or craft store.
(Can't remember if there is a stringer right on top of the keel or not ??)
Might have to put two 8x2 strips together to get the length of the cockpit area between the bulkhead and transom.
Get them in place right under the laser beam, hot glueing as you go, then strips down the bulkhead to the floor, transom to the floor.
Then a 2x8 piece down the keel of hull.
This is were the pop cycle sticks come in. ( I do this on the transom and bulkhead as well to create the pattern you need)
Use the pop cycle sticks along the hull to make your lower cutting pattern..

Look at this for a picture of the pattern making process http://www.classicboatclub.com/Johan...Boy/index.html

Then pull your stringer pattern out and now you can lay it out on your MDO plywood or whatever your going to use.
I use a two part marine sealer when I can't get the MarXite product to seal the wood. I double seal the edges, some times three coats to seal them.

Hot glue your cut stringer in place, then fiberglass tape.
Here is were it can get tricky. Once you grind out the old fiberglass tape were the old stringer was, you need to mark it real well on the ends, bulkhead and transom area.

Remember your laser line, your stringers will be at a 90 degree angle from that or think of the floor being in, its 90 degree angle from the floor so they are all standing straight up..

Did I make enough sense here for you to understand my gibberish ??

Oh, rub rail, Wefco in California is were most of us get our rubber products.
I will give you the link when your ready.

[Helmar]

keel is supported in 4 places and i left the cabin deck in place for support. The keel does not move when i walk on it. opinion?

I can see the keel on one of your pictures. Do the stringers on each side of the keel first after the bulkhead and transom is in.

[Lyle]

For the stringers, are you comfortable with doing those ? I would get the cabin bulkhead in and the transom in as you will want to join the stringers to those.

I was going to do the transom first. I did not even think of doing the bulkhead. That's some good information. Looking at the photos no I can see what you mean with the Popsicle sticks.

Ill leave some of the old tabbing that was left in place after I removed the stringers to help locate the new stringers

[Helmar]

I was going to do the transom first. I did not even think of doing the bulkhead. That's some good information. Looking at the photos no I can see what you mean with the Popsicle sticks.

Ill leave some of the old tabbing that was left in place after I removed the stringers to help locate the new stringers

Not that it makes much difference, but I do Not use Westmarines fiberglass resins as they kick way to fast and the charts are worthless. I use Fiberlay's products.