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Thread: Wood replacement questions

  1. #51
    I am planning to put pvc pipes in after I'm done with the bulkhead and cabin wall and before the floor goes in. I'll take a look at your window moldings when I get further along.

  2. #52
    Super Moderator Super Moderator Kelly's Avatar
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    Ah gotcha, glad to hear that. Can't wait to see some more progress pics!
    1958 Skagit 20 Express Hardtop
    1958 Skagit 20 Express
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  3. #53
    Again try fiberglass on some pvc pipe to see if you get expected results,before doing installation.

  4. #54
    Administrator Helmar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sclapsaddle View Post
    I am planning to put pvc pipes in after I'm done with the bulkhead and cabin wall and before the floor goes in. I'll take a look at your window moldings when I get further along.
    I fill any voids with the fiberfiller when needed.
    Once the floor goes down, then the holes drilled, boat jacked up in the bow and the foaming process happens.
    I use the Fiberlay Adhisve close cell floatation foam.
    It will have a small door or plate just inside the cabin as so if any water get in, will make its way to the lid/door/plate, whatever you want to call it and then down the PVC to the bilge area and get pumped out.

    I can submit more pictures as I progress if you like.

    Yours is looking pretty sharp !!

    Helmar
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    Helmar Joe Johanesen
    1959 Skagit 20ft Offshore, 1959 Skagit 16ft Skimaster,
    1961 17ft Dorsett Catalina.1958 Uniflite 17 ft
    Outboards: 2.5 Bearcats, 3 50hp White shadow Mercs
    2 40hp Johnsons, several smaller Old kickers for a total of 12

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  5. #55
    Supporting Member Supporting Member bruceb's Avatar
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    Helmar- great info on the process so far.
    The pvc layout is similar to other posts I'd seen and someone in the past had drilled the top of the tubing in a few places (maybe 5) from fore to aft so that if there's a buildup of water in the foam it could collect that, and by not drilling the sides or bottom still allows water to travel aft without re-introduction back into the foam.
    Are there athwart ships holes through the stringers to direct water to the center channel ? Don't remember if anyones mentioned that. The deck surface has two holes near the aft to take water off and direct it to the bilge, but they're forward of the aft bulkhead. In your de-construction, did you find holes just forward of the aft transom bulkhead sideways through the stringers ?
    All in all, the work on the hull and tubing looks sharp. Always love seeing those beefy fiberglass stringers that the Skagit factory made. They were forerunners in fiberglass technology.
    Thanks for the pics and info !

  6. #56
    Administrator Helmar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bruceb View Post
    Helmar- great info on the process so far.
    The pvc layout is similar to other posts I'd seen and someone in the past had drilled the top of the tubing in a few places (maybe 5) from fore to aft so that if there's a buildup of water in the foam it could collect that, and by not drilling the sides or bottom still allows water to travel aft without re-introduction back into the foam.
    Are there athwart ships holes through the stringers to direct water to the center channel ? Don't remember if anyones mentioned that. The deck surface has two holes near the aft to take water off and direct it to the bilge, but they're forward of the aft bulkhead. In your de-construction, did you find holes just forward of the aft transom bulkhead sideways through the stringers ?
    All in all, the work on the hull and tubing looks sharp. Always love seeing those beefy fiberglass stringers that the Skagit factory made. They were forerunners in fiberglass technology.
    Thanks for the pics and info !
    Hi Bruce
    We had a foam job blow the floor up and had to do the tare down and that is a job I Never Never want to do again. Not enough expansion holes were drilled in the floor.
    We found that 2" holes every 16 to 18 inches apart seem to work best as if you pored in too much it would blow though the hole.
    Not sure if I have pictures of some of the, Too much foam in the hole, jobs but it would come up out of the holes quite fast and make a big mess.
    After doing several, you kind of get a knack for it. Poor a little less then you think and wait for it to stop expanding. Takes longer but with the bow up in the air as much as possible you are pretty much rest assured that you will have no voids to collect moisture.

    The floor we blew up and had to take back out like I said, was a nightmare. We used the Fiberlay closed cell Adhesive flotation foam and because the hull was cleaned of any oil's and dirt, it was stuck to Everything. We had to cut the floor in 1 to two inch strips to get it to let go of the foam. We started to dig it out but found it was almost impossible. We just used the sanders and I had setup the laser to bring the foam back down to a new floor could go back on. We only had a few chunks missing that had to be filled but I we knocked the foam down enough to cause a void between the floor and old foam so we did the process again filling the voids and making sure it was stuck to the floor again.

    I did play with that Fiberlay stuff and have a pot here that I had 8oz, Eight Ounces! that I had left in the pot.
    I also had some blow's that I had floating around in the shops rain barrel for about 3 years and soaked up, No moisture. So, I am sold on there product.

    Next to the hull between the frames, I will make a box out of 1/2 inch plywood that is adjustable or a adjustable mold. Then use to pour any excess into it for floating on the sides of the hulls. You can also just board up between the frames and pour in up to whatever level you want. Of course having foam on the sides will help not let the boat do what I hear is called Turtling or rolling over if for some reason to get a big one over the sides of the boat.

    I did see the slots on the bottoms of the fiberglass stringers to allow any water to works it way to the keel stringer on all that I have been into. It must of been a common practice for them.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Helmar Joe Johanesen
    1959 Skagit 20ft Offshore, 1959 Skagit 16ft Skimaster,
    1961 17ft Dorsett Catalina.1958 Uniflite 17 ft
    Outboards: 2.5 Bearcats, 3 50hp White shadow Mercs
    2 40hp Johnsons, several smaller Old kickers for a total of 12

    Our Sister club
    http://www.goldenstateglassics.com

    Oh, and Where is Robin Hood when you need him??


  7. #57
    Quote Originally Posted by sclapsaddle View Post
    Yes thanks, I don't want to reinvent the wheel here just do what works and use others advise. Pictures this afternoon.
    Are you going to the La Conner show?

  8. #58
    John, yes we are planning to attend the show in La Conner.
    Helmar, Bruce's boat is looking good and thanks for the info.

    I've been making some slow progress, a little work here and there and its starting to look like a boat again. I tabbed the rear bulkhead in, made the splash well epoxied the wood blocks to the transom and the bulkhead with screws, then epoxied the plywood to the blocks with screws. its a bit more structure then what I cut apart but I was trying to tie it all together as securely as possible. I then layed up two layers of 1708 and one layer of cloth in the splash well and to the sides of the boat. I had some left over industrial polyurethane enamel from work that is a close grey color that seemed to be used originally. This stuff is super durable I use it for all chassis and suspension components at work.
    Then I installed the cabin wall, epoxied and screwed the backing board to the lower section and the cabin wall. I ended up tabbing the upper cabin wall in exclusively with epoxy resin due to the amount of stress I feel that wall undergoes during rough water. The lower section I used polyester resin and the rear bulk head was epoxy on the front side and polyester resin on the splash well side. Floor is next!
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