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  • Paint?

    In another thread it was mentioned the use of automotive paint. The aray of color choice and price is inviting.My question is has anyone had experience using automotive products and how well do they hold up ,at least above the waterline?
    1958 Skagit 20 Offshore hardtop cruiser "Kanigo"

  • #2
    I used an automotive urathane on the hull and deck on my BellBoy. It seems to be holding up fine. Not sure about long periods in the water, but I think that is usually a primer issue.
    Ross Henson

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    • #3
      I have seen a couple of boats painted with automotive paint that the owners complained bitterly about blistering. This was several years ago, but i think i would shy away if the boat was going to be anything but a trailer queen.
      ChuckB
      "Believe me, my young friend, there is nothing- absolutely nothing- half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats." K. Grahame "The Wind in the Willows"

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      • #4
        With regard to using automotive paint on a boat like most of us have, we are just painting fiberglass. They have been painting fiberglass cars for years and we paint fiberglass trailers and sidecars all the time. Yes, blistering can be a problem, but only from poor preparation. It really is a lot of work to prep fiberglass properly for paint. A quick skuff won't do it. Also getting all the polish and wax off that has been on there soaking into the fiberglass for years is a real challenge. Modern Urethane's are really tough flexible paints. Done properly water should have no effect on them. B

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        • #5
          Car Paints do work!

          Ok Melanie and all,
          About to roll on some Marine paint but would have used the car stuff had it been cheaper for me.
          The Urethane paints on cars almost always requires a good epoxy prime which will make a base that withstands flexing and abuse boats see.
          Awlgrip is basically US Paint which is also a major car paint supplier.Price check between the Fisheries and your local favorite paint shop.You may find a new source for bondo and sandpaper.
          Cars NEVER look bad at the parking lots (unless rattlecanned at home....)
          and the primer(ok ,+ clearcoat....) all body shops and factories use is what the difference is.Cars don`t get walked on so flexing doesn`t matter as often.
          Ron Jones at American Fiberglass on Lake Union swears by 2 layers of West System over the entire surface on his high dollar jobs that he can`t afford to fail.He does use single part paints over the solid base and gets great results.
          I don`t roll out straight epoxy much but always use the primers if cracking or multiple repairs have been done.
          The beauty of the car paints is you can color match and choose from a myriad of choices.The clearcoats make driveway painting look showroom ready and you can layer up the coats until a high gloss finish that will withstand buffing,gas ,and even feet.
          They also have Accelerator which speeds up the dry time and allows crap to fall on a surface but won`t get too deep as the skin has already set.Wait as long as possible ,the wash hard and most bugs and specks wipe right off.
          I went with 2 Part Polyureathane for today`s project that is a larger hull that will be rolled out in Red......a test for when I get asked again to paint red,which I`ll never spray again...still finding it on stuff.
          Watch for "Big RED" about to come on-line.
          Tim M
          Attached Files
          unk.year 10` Mahogeny "DragonFly"racer
          15` SAFE boat w/120 hp Johnson
          SeaRay 175BR
          Hi-Laker lapline
          14` Trailorboat

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