Still wondering about foaming '59 Skagit

[Terry T]

My daughter and I spent several years stripping down and refurbishing a 1959 Skagit "Off Shore Cruiser" that I was given where we live here on Orcas island. Rumor has it it was originally owned by a long time Islander who actually helped manufacture it in La Conner. The original deck was partially rotted out, so part of our restoration was to remove and replace it, which we did with fiberglass impregnated structural foam panel. When we finally got it back in the water, as much fun as it was I noticed that the whole bottom was somewhat soft, you could feel each wave pass under your feet. After fishing and crabbing and having fun for a year, I pulled it out of the water (we keep it moored in West Sound rather than trailer and launch it). It was taking on a some water, and I decided it was time to do do something about the hull rigidity and go after the leek problem. The first thing I did was to router out the new deck around the stringer structure. Having focused more on perhaps the cosmetic issues on the first restoration go-round, we hadn't really had a good look at the stringers. After removing most of the new deck, I realized that several of the hollow fiberglass for-to-aft sections of the stringers were fractured. I have now reinforced this area with matt and woven rovings laid down the sides and across the bottom of the stinger structure. I am considering either foaming the voids between the stringer, or pouring foam inside the stringers, or both. Today I brought home a gallon kit of 2 part 2# urethane foam. I made a test pour. After it cured it seemed a little on the "light side" when i started breaking it apart, testing it with my hands etc. I could see it breaking down under days, months or years of vibration and flexing. So I went on the internet to see if I had gotten the wrong density of foam, started reading all the various forum threads on "foaming the bilge" and started to rethink foaming all together. I would like to have the additional strength and flotation I would get from the poured in foam, but still wonder... which part of the area between the hull and the deck? Will it break down and absorb water (especially since I don't keep it under cover in dry storage)? What weight of product should I use?

I know some of you are familiar with this model of boat, and it's structure, and have probably done some poured foam in the bilge. Any advice?

Thanks, any experience here would be greatly appreciated!

[Tim_Mattson]

Terry,
Foaming can be a good thing if done properly (or done before you sink one....shut up Greg).
Foaming fully and then encapsulating the Foam "Log" as a unit will keep water from creeping in which leads to Freeze Damage and moisture rot.
Wood from hulls not foamed seems to last longer but if Structure and Integrity are lost ,flexing will lead to cracks and transom failures as your hull weight increases.
If you leave the center or Keel section open for water to escape rather than be trapped,your hull will last much longer.A hose from a small sump can work the same but gettng it watertight is difficult.
New Boats are required to have "Level Flotation" which means it floats level and flat rather than turning "Turtle" as my own partially foamed Seafair did at Ivar`s 2 years back.With no foam or flotation in rear corners or gunnels,your water logged hull can go down quickly I found.
Foaming above the floor can go a longer ways than all under the floor,with less giving more results flotation-wise.The firmness of a fully foamed Hull is un-disputable however.

I`d shoot for "X" amt in each rear corner (can be done as an asy ,then bolted or screwed in place),then put 1.5 "X" in the bow......plus whatever fits under floors.
Coast Guard actually buys new boats and tests this on occasion to see what happens........others learn the hard way.
I heard of some Alum Boat makers having foam in their bare hulls actually rub Salt granules until they wore thru the bottom and leaked.Not being primed ,the Foam didn`t stick long to the powdery Alum,then rubbed like a Rasp.
Marty wrote the book on this subject so any other advice should be heeded too.Pretty sure you want 4 lb Foam which is denser.
TM

[Terry T]

Thanks Tim, I think this sounds like pretty sound advice. It sounds like the best approach for my floor/hull would be to foam the cavities above/beside my "stringer structure" allowing any water to flow along the inside of the hull itself, yet providing rigidity to the hull and floor. Additional foam in the areas you described will also be part of the plan, although swamping and turtling are less of a concern for me (unless of course I decide to take the thing out to Uklulet or something like that). These voids above/beside the stringer structure have also been freshly overlaid with matt and rovings and more likely to be easily sealed from any water intrusion as I lay the new deck. I just have to figure out what to do with my 2# foam now.

The "stringer" structure between the hull and the deck is kind of strange, I dont think I have really seen anything like it in another boat, its more like a long linear waffle that anything else I could think of. If any other members following this thread have experience with the particular hull, I'd love to hear from them. In regard to the design of this boat and it's roundish flatish bottom, interconnection of all the hollow stringers etc, the term keel becomes kind of fuzzy to apply here.

I understand Marty is the expert, if he wanted to pitch in that would be greatly appreciated also. I have only manged to access a few of what must have been many threads on this subject.

BTW- I didn't do a good job of introducing myself as a new user/member. I'll try to get a few pictures of our Skagit (my daughter named the "Wonderdog")and some background posted.

Look forward to attending my first rendezvous and seeing you out on the water. This is great fun, thanks again Tim.