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1960 Merc 800

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  • 1960 Merc 800

    Whats one of these worth in good running condition?
    What abot when it's all there but not running?

    Opinions please
    Thanks Del vel

  • #2
    merc 800

    Wow, there are so many variables in determining price on these old classics. Our own Dr Frankenmerc would be one of the best resources for an opinion. Anyway, based on the AOMCI site, the Fiberglassics merc site, ebay and 'all of craigslist,' it looks like a nonrunning but turning free example could range from $150-500 and a 'good running (however the seller defines that) starts at around 400 and goes on up depending on some degree the cosmetics and if the control/cable go with it. Even the 'good runners' generally should be gone through, replacing the impeller and maybe ending up with replacing the LU seals. Compression or leak down tests are part of the process, too. (Try doing a ring job without the proper merc tools :shocked3 They are heavy beasts, too!

    I have the forerunner, the Mark 75, which the good Dr has recently tuned. Just hope I don't bust any docks this summer.


    • #3
      1960 800 Merc

      There are several models of the 800 that were offered in 1960.
      One has a full gear shaft (forward-neutral-reverse) one is a DR (Direct Reversing).
      All are 76 ci inline-6 Mercs.
      I would ask around $3500 for a fully restored FGS with PT and probably about the same for a fully restored DR with PT. (no - they did not come originally with PT (power trim), but it is an easy feature to retro-fit to the 800.
      I would ask about $300 - $1000 for one needing a full restoration, depending on whether you need a long shaft or short shaft model. (shorts are harder to find parts for and consequently I ask more for them)
      If you already have a candidate in mind - I have a pretty decent selection of parts for the '60 800 Mercs - both DR & FGS.
      Thom 98584
      Attached Files
      Doc Frankenmerc
      Keeping Mercs alive since 1965


      • #4
        Found the serial & Mod #s

        I found the Model # Merc 800 E, Serial # 1337648 electric start.
        Can you tell anything about motor from that info?
        is it a DR-direct reverse? or a full shift?
        Attached Files


        • #5
          short shaft dockbuster:cool1:
          Gordon and Cheryl Davies


          • #6
            Merc 800...Now what?

            So Thanks to you all I know I have a Merc 800 short shaft elec. start.
            Direct shift. "Dock Buster"

            Pulled plugs: looked used but no bad signs on them.
            Squrited some marvel mystery oil in holes and turned over by hand.
            Every thing under the cowl is there and looks clean, no notice able corrosion.

            Before I screw something up :nono1:whats the next step to checking it out?

            The shifter controls for throttle,seem frozen and there is no key avail.
            Other than that it looks like all I have to do is hook-up a battery to the leads, and do a compression test? Seller said he thinks the starter dosn't work

            How can I check starter any other way? If starter is bad can it be rebuilt
            ecconomically? can a good auto electric shop do that?

            What edition/Volume repair manual will cover this motor?

            I'm retired on SS and don't have deep pockets. do I bale,now or invest in time and $ to dog this beast down?

            You guys have the knowledge. I don't please tell me what lies ahead?

            Thanks for your advice.:boater1:
            Attached Files


            • #7
              Hi delvel. I am not a complete expert but I have restored one of these engines on a shoestring budget so it is possible. It's really a process of elimination to determine what condition the motor is in. To check the starter you can just unbolt it and do what's called a bench test. This is where you apply direct battery power to the starter to see if it works. Be really careful that you have starter secured in a vice or something similar because it is sudden and powerful. The starter is dead simple. You bypass the solenoid and just connect a set of jumpers to the positive and negative terminals on the starter.

              You need the starter to do a compression test. If you can determine that you have solid, evencompression then you have a good idea if this is a total rebuild or if the heart of the motor is in decent shape. Buy it borrow a compression tester which screws into the spark plug holes. Remove all the plugs and test each cylinder one at a time and then see if they are even. I would try to do this before you go any farther because if compression is not there then it's gonna be major heart surgery and you might not want to do it.

              A final note on the starter. If you do a bench test and it turns up dead then try just taking it sort and cleaning the points and motor inside. In mine it was so corroded inside the motor could not function but once I cleaned it it was fine and it cost me nothing to do that. Gettng the spring-loaded points back in is difficult but not impossible. Also if you don't have a key you can use the same direct current method to spin the starter on the motor but you will probably need another pair of hands.


              • #8
                Great info.

                Thanks Chris,


                • #9
                  A quick note on keys too

                  One other thing on the keys. Here in Victoria I took the control box down to the local Merc service shop and they happened to have a ton of keys that he keeps on hand for when they run into this problem. I got lucky and we found a match so all I had to do was pay about $15 for a new set. You might be able to do the same if you contact your local mercury sales and service shop


                  • #10
                    Thanks for the tips

                    Thanks Chris I'll try that & let you know how it works out.


                    • #11
                      Starter runs/ what?

                      Hi Chris:
                      took your advice and jumped solinoid. so the starter runs(both directions) but won't engage the flywheel.On a car starter it would be the "Bendix"that needs to be replaced, but on the "Merc" I understand it is an "inertia" engagement system. How does that work?
                      Still can't figure out the throttle & shift controls.
                      The throttle linkage inside the engine looks like its a combo electric/mechinical lever system. I don't want to break anything as it dosn't want to move easily what now??



                      • #12
                        I have found that sometimes the Mercury key number is on a tag inside the box.....generally speaking a three digit number. Example would be key number 127.. Best of luck!

                        As a fall back, Sea Way Marine in West Seattle, is a great resource for all kinds of NOS Merc stuff!

                        Once you do find the key, a tip from Dr Franken Merc is to mark the key number on the mounted side of the control box..hidden from view but quickly accessed if needed...just a thought from a forgetful soul.

                        Kindest Regards,



                        • #13
                          Thamks for the tip

                          Thamks I;ll look for it


                          • #14
                            Hi Delvel - your questions are beyond my experience - there are probably more knowledgeable people here that can tell you what to do next. I was hoping that if you could at least do a compression test with the starter it would give you a better starting point.


                            • #15
                              Merc 800 Compression

                              Ok got starter running and did a test... as follows
                              #1 71#s
                              #2 70#s
                              #3 70#s
                              #4 68#s
                              #5 70#s
                              #6 66#s

                              Still trying to figure out why throttle linkage is not moving freely?