Transom Help

[Helmar]

One of the things we need to do is put together a Show and Tell on some of the ways to do Transom repairs.
This is something we can sure put on the website don't you think?
We will become famous as the only other place I can find this is in books.

Of course, this will be one of the things we well put as so Members only can get to. (Need to get working on the Members and Guest area.)

[timw]

OR, produce a video, step by step...19.95 plus shipping and handling. Of course members would recive a huge discount.

[Steve_Kiesel]

Good ideas. Over time we can put some of this information under the restoration link on the main page. Seems to be a lot of questions on window replacement that could go there as well.

It's this kind of info that will make the website have more value for all of us. I noticed we have over a hundred members now, from all over, not just the NW. That's goodness.

[Helmar]

Transom Replacement

Hey Ole.
Don't you have the step by step transom build up for that sweet little Bell Boy that you did a hull up resto on for John Dellanoy?
Seems to me you had pictures of those steps.

I can look to see what I have on the transoms that I did to see if I have them too.

If I have the pictures for the step by step, you can put those slick words to them.

[stefrobrts]

Thanks for the recommendation to read the West Marine brochure. There's a 91 page document for free download on their website, and it has step by step instructions and lots of illustrations. It's definitly clearer to me as to what I need to do now. Just need to figure out how to work with epoxy and dive in and start doing it I guess.

[Helmar]

See, its not hard at all.
Rubber gloves, don't forget those

[Tim_Mattson]

Transom stuff

Stef,
I like to work up to big jobs with little test batches on smaller spot repairs every hull has along with most transom repairs.
Use the backside of the new transom as a work bench ,then you can pour out the larger batch right on to any recent drippings.Every repair is different and you need to match whatever material you see with like material.....
Yesterday I was fixing cracked Cloth and found the same stuff blended very nicely as the Chopped and woven glass would have shown up.
I`m "training" my first layer of transom wood to curve as the hull does by leaving it screwed in place a day or two before wetting it out and Epoxying it in place.
Also "Balance " any repairs especially at rear corners and do both sides if it looks like one will be stronger from a repair.
Layers of gloves will be your best tactic,I buy two sizes and use smaller ones to start,covered by up to 3-4 pairs that can be peeled away as you get messy.Nitrile gloves will stand up to Acetone but are pricey.
Tim M

[ternkeim]

Me Too!

I might as well jump in here and ask th $1,000,000.00 question.

I do not have the time or the inclination to try this on my own so...

Who will do it for me and at what cost to me?

Terry B.

[ternkeim]

Well...
This morning I removed the screws holding the transducer on, and the screws that were filling the holes from the old transducer (from before I got the boatand I've had it for over 20yrs.).
Imagine my surprise and unltimately my disdain when I got a full measured cup of water drained out of the holes! ...And that's before it slowed to just drops!!
I've not drilled holes yet as I'm afraid of what I'll find. I know me very well and I know I won't stop until it is fixed and completely watertight again. (Sometimes I hate myself!).
All this and I've still got to locate a windshield! I'm not sure this boat (or any boat) is worth this much trouble.

I am filled with chagrin!!!!!!!!!
Terry B.

[Helmar]

Marketing yourself.

Its getting to the point we might have to address this advertising on the board stuff here....
We have Several members that can do this kind of work.


I think we need to get into this and just Spell it out.

Maybe I can put in a new thread and call it Marketing your services or something to that order...

For now, if anyone wants to just Email you about what they can do for you, I suggest Go for it.

Joe
How about just listing them in the resource guide showing them as members and what they do? I would certainly check with someone that is a member to help me if needed before looking elsewhere. I don't think any of the other businesses listed are paying for the listing there are they? Barry

[ron12]

Stef,
I like to work up to big jobs with little test batches on smaller spot repairs every hull has along with most transom repairs.
Use the backside of the new transom as a work bench ,then you can pour out the larger batch right on to any recent drippings.Every repair is different and you need to match whatever material you see with like material.....
Yesterday I was fixing cracked Cloth and found the same stuff blended very nicely as the Chopped and woven glass would have shown up.
I`m "training" my first layer of transom wood to curve as the hull does by leaving it screwed in place a day or two before wetting it out and Epoxying it in place.
Also "Balance " any repairs especially at rear corners and do both sides if it looks like one will be stronger from a repair.
Layers of gloves will be your best tactic,I buy two sizes and use smaller ones to start,covered by up to 3-4 pairs that can be peeled away as you get messy.Nitrile gloves will stand up to Acetone but are pricey.
Tim M

tim is that the glassply spalsh well? it looks just like the avalon i picked up few weeks ago we are gonna replace the transom it's pretty bad.

[Tim_Mattson]

Ron ,
That was a "Trailorboat" that I drug home for $50.00.It was a Balsa core bottom with no stringers and had a rotten transom.I opted for the Hack method and cut out the thin splashwell out with two cuts in each corner that were later doubled up with a patch of woven roving from below.
The boat is now moored on Lake Union and owned by the diver,BJ, who brought my Seafair up from the depths.........
Without removing the top shell ,you either get serious and cut,or pc it in which is never a good thing.....
Glasspars all seem to have a serious curve to the rear so it takes good Hull blocking and some "Lofting" type measurements where you check numbers from X + Y lines you get to try to create from nothing.
You`ll also get to use thinner wood in many layers so it will even bend.
If you DO remove the top shell,then you get to hope you have it right as you will find the curve may have changed as you assemble the top.
A cross brace and template of some sort may help or just be careful all along the way.
TM