Marine windshield

[Tim McCrain]

Tim
Haven't entirely thought this through but suppose there were "studs" that were fixed on the cabin roof but were made so they pointed forward and angled up slightly. That way the windshield would be set down just in front of them and slid back to engage. Then possibly only three over center latches used from behind the windshield to pull it back firmly onto the studs? I also think I'd be looking into some kind of rubber/plastic edging or seal to go along the bottom of the windshield frame to better seal and conform to the cabin roof?

That sounds like a good idea, but I'm not sure Bob has enough "meat" at the bottom of the frame to work with. I originally thought of a similar arrangement, but got to thinking about how the fastening system fastens into the fiberglass and how to avoid stress cracking there. From what I can see on my boats, it seems the best way to avoid stress cracking is to mount things so that the fiberglass is basically clamped between components with any vibration or strain spread out as far as possible. I'm thinking that the arrangement he has now is probably the best way to firmly mount the windshield.

I'm with ya on the rubber seal, I think the way to go is to reduce as much as possible the protrusion of the frame-to-glass fasteners, then install a rubber seal on the back of the glass that will "smooth out" the fastener "bumps" and provide a tight fit against the cabin.

Isn't this fun?

[BellBoyBob]

Hi Guys:

I really appreciate the input on this. Tim, your idea of fusing the glass to the bottom frame is going to be my challenge. Barry, I will look around online and find which marine adhesive adheres best to plastic and to aluminum, probably by experimenting with some scrap pieces of each. Maybe 3m 5200? Having the original bolts there to hold the Plexiglas in place against the aluminum extrusion while an adhesive cures is perfect. Also, when the adhesive is cured and I unscrew the nuts and trim flush the bolt studs, I still have the studs helping to hold the glue joint between the glass and aluminum.I will do some sanding and buffing to get the frames looking better. I think I will reverse what I have now - that is, to have the bolts come out from the inside and secure the windshield down with stainless steel acorn nuts. I also have some Plexiglas scratch remover from Novus that works beautifully on a couple of scuffs incurred with all of the attaching / detaching I have done over the last three seasons!
Thanks for everything!

Bob

[Tim_Mattson]

Window sealant + .....

Bob,
I`m doing some windows and was asking Skip at Middy about sealants the other day.He said to use the Aquarium flavor silicone as it will have less caustic chemicals that won`t attack the plastic yet will be pliable and flexible enough to seal out water and provide a tight transition to the hull.
I do like to use the Automotive Ribbon Sealer by 3 M and is easily stretched like Taffy so it can fit the size you need.This stuff is very sticky and used to seal Canopy windows like on Leer Tops.
The 50`Sailboat I re-did the flat 1/2`` Plexi windows in last summer sailed down the California in heavy Following seas and my buddy said the windows were 3` under Green water with NO LEAKS!
Don`t you try that but it does seal really good and is found at any local auto paint+trim supplier.
Tim M

[McSkagit Tim Jones]

Windshield frame

Not sure where to find a good selection of aluminum extrustions.

I envision two frames, the larger wider channel that is bolted to the boat and and smaller frame that is part of the windshield. The windshield frame sits in the "U" shaped frame attached to the boat. Is secured with perhaps 4 machine screws going through both frames horizontally....maybe with stainless wing nuts. There are probably some quick release fasteners available in stainless also.

Have you tried letting the air out of the tires, or perhaps modifying your trailer into a "low-rider"? Or raise your garage...?

McSkagit

[BellBoyBob]

Ha ha. That idea WAS floated around here but the new garage header would have to be 120" (10 ft.) I am now at the standard 83" No tire deflation would lower my boat 37" !! That, of course would be best for the BellBoy but I would have to dismantle the loft inside the garage, raise the header and buy a new garage door...Hmmm. Here is a shot of the boat in front of the garage door.

I think I will stick with the removable windshield for now but my goal is to get the thing to LOOK better where it is attached. I will find a way. You have been very helpful and I have a lot more ideas than I did!

Bob

[Marvelous]

I almost had that problem with my garage but i made the framers tear out there 8' opening and put it back 10'. the windshield clears but i doubt it will with the new top. Removing the top will be easy though.

Did you check out the Boatlife life-seal. Iwanted to be sure i could remove the plastic from the frame if need be down the road.

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Most RTV sealants exude an acid (forget which one) while drying...that stink you smell outgassing is the byproduct of this. Auto window sealants are urethane based and use a different chemical makeup to avoid this acid because it leads to formation of rust in the channel around the window.

Aluminum extrusions from our friends at McMaster-Carr: http://www.mcmaster.com/#aluminum/=14t1yb