Adding a hardtop

[Bob Bobbers]

i have been thinking of adding a hardtop to my boat. I leave the canvas up all the time except when trailering so it makes sense. In the rain its cover and on hot days its shade. I build cabinets so I am pretty good with wood and know how to fiberglass.

Anybody have any tips to help me out with the design?

thanks

[TheBronze]

whew, that is going to be a tough one. You could make a squared off cover and do a good job and it might still look bad on the boat. Was there a hardtop option for your boat? Or one from another model that might fit?

The thing to remember about most old boats is that they are all round corners, tapered, convex, and any other assortment of shape that they could come up with to use the 'wonder' material. Trying to repliacte that with wood is certainly doable, but sounds like a big job to get right. And then you would be left with a fair amount of weight too. Unless you used the wood to make your own plug....

[DMCI]

I've been thinking about this one a little bit.

Let's look at the requirements:

1) Wind Loading

The top will be loaded by 15 to 30 knot winds on the bow when running. Even more interesting is a 60 to 70 knot winds on the bow when trailering.

I would suggest an aerodynamic shape without a front resistance form. Especially interesting are the rear supports for the top. It may be possible to find a lightweight fabricated aluminum support that will reduce the weight over comparable would and/or fiberglass structures.

2) Weight Loading

The windshield will work for front support if the windshield is strong enough, or if bracing supports are added. Former supports, I think aluminum fiberglass members with racing support would be useful here. Under top supports was really relatively high moment of inertia would be helpful here. I'm thinking if you have a fiberglass top you can fiberglass in some one by threes.

3) Working Examples

Further, I would suggest carefully studying the historical and current photographs of boats with wood tops on them.

You might also consider, what I might do is to put a flying canvas top on the boat. Which can be removed easily whether goes better. I'm also thinking about a mooring cover that will allow me to use my runabout like it had a tent by cutting a zippered access door in that top. This mooring cover will go from the windshield to the front of the motor well. It will be supplemented during poor weather by a normal tarp. The flying top is alsoan efficient way to do what you want to do and also leave sufficient headroom without creating a monstrosity. (I've always felt that heavy chop almost rules out a hardtop.)

[strobee]

The picture Dave shows is the factory hardtop for the Skagit Skimaster. The aqua and white boat is mine. The hardtop makes it difficult to get in and out of the boat, and difficult to hook up a bow anchor. I would take the hardtop off if it didn't look so damn cool. For me the hardtop is for looks. A foldable canvas top would seem more practical for me. Clint

[Skagitguy]

I would forget the hardtop. Sorry about that. I also had a Skagit Skimaster and i took it off when running the boat ,like Clint said a person always had hard time to get out of the seat and get back in the stern to grab the dock. It looks great for shows and that is all. One last thing, When i sold it to a person in Oregon , he called me the next day and said it blew off on I-5 and was totaled. Forget the top. Chuck

[slo-mo]

sky is falling...

Go for it Terry (bob), not sure which of your armada will be sporting your one-off creation-but it could be really cool.

Our double windshield custom Glastron leaves a lot to be desired cruising on a hot day. Since I don't want to add any clutter with a bimini, we grabbed a 1960 Glastron Bayflite with the best factory hardtop ever-for our next boatstoration. The hull proportions are chubby with loads of freeboard, allowing for better egress than the lower Skagit design that Helmar, Chuck and Strobee have mentioned.

Your glass skills will be tested, but the project would be straightforward using foam to build a sacrificial plug (form). With this technique, you would hot glue urethane foam to its rough shape on the boat. Using a Stanley rasp and hand longboard to easily create the compound curves required for a classic hull. A glass layup schedule over the foam will be faired to final surface using fillers, finishing with common painting Protocol. Very good strength can be gained by carving the foam on the underside to form perimeter ribs, followed by glass layup, with light carpet forming a nice headliner.

Further down my project list is a 1958 Reinell Jetabout, that will receive an inboard jet transplant. I have removed a convertible top and windshield from a Fiat Spyder to transform this cool boat into an all weather sporty ride. With a roof that folds down in 15 seconds, docking maneuvers should be straightforward.

Greg

P.S. : do you still have the saddle tank I bought last year but never picked up?

[Bob Bobbers]

hard top

YEP STILL HAVE THE TANK...storage fees will completely pay for my resto project! LOL

Anyway, Never thought about the foam idea, but I think that will be the best approach. The windshield and side are almost as tall as I am when I stand so it will not be hard to raise the height. I just do not want it to end up looking like a classic boat with a cheesy hardtop add!