Into the Cockpit

[Skagitguy]

Exterior more or less done.

[Helmar]

Looken pretty slick there Chuck.

Looks as you might be ahead of schedule there too.

[Skagitguy]

Looken pretty slick there Chuck.

Looks as you might be ahead of schedule there too.

Joe, Yea, Some days i feel like i'am ahead and then some other days i feel like i took a few step's back. Sunday put all of the striping back on after repainting the charcoal-grey. Started on the cockpit today.

[TheBronze]

Chuck,

Looking good! What brand is that antenna? I like the look and the way it stows.

[Skagitguy]

John, It's a 8' antenna from Shakespeare that they call a Classic 5226-XT black. The same one but white is a 5225-XT. I got mine on e-bay as it is about $35-$40.00.00 cheaper and free freight and no tax. WM wants $174.99 for the black in the old 2012 Catalog. I paid about $129.00. I have had about 4 of them in the past and being i like the black rub-rail and the stripe is black too , it seems to go together to me anyway. O yea, need to get a antenna clip on the end so it does not bounce up and down going down the highway.


This is what Shakespeare said's about it:

Shakespeare Galaxy Style 5226-XT 8' VHF 6dB Gain Collinear-phased 5/8 wave elements EXTRA TOUGH!This antenna is the same as Style 5225-XT but with the exclusive Galaxy gloss black finish. It's Shakespeares best maximum range and quality in a great looking Galaxy antenna. The new 5225-XT is Shakespeares classic Style 5225 in a new stronger stiffer radome. Its extra tough for use on hard tops T-tops radar arches or wherever its extra resistance to high winds and high speeds is welcome.Brass and copper elements for maximum range and efficiency Stainless steel ferrule with standard 1"-14 thread20' RG-8/X low-loss cable plus a PL-259 connector Suggested mount: Shakespeare Style 4187 Ratchet Mount One section Shakespeare Limited Warranty: 5 years Technical Specifications:Frequency:VHF Marine BandBandwidth:3 MHz within 2.0:1 VSWRSWR: nominally 1.5:1 at 156.8 MHzImpedance:50 ohmsGain:6 dBMax Input (Watts):100 watts DC Ground:YES Height (feet):8Polarization:Vertical Product : SHAKESPEARE VHF 8FT 5226-XT BLACK Manufacturer : SHAKESPEARE Manufacturer Part No : 5226-XT UPC : 719441200237

[TheBronze]

Thanks, Chuck.

Amazing to see that RED boat in your shed. Last time I was out there, Bainbridge was taking up that space!

[Skagitguy]

Thanks, Chuck.

Amazing to see that RED boat in your shed. Last time I was out there, Bainbridge was taking up that space!

Oh well, They come and go ! It seems like this one has been here forever in some ways already.

[Helmar]

Looks pretty good Chuck. She is going to be a head turner for sure.
I know some things sound simple. Like, I painted the hull.
Well, if the boat is on a trailer, what is the process to sand and paint the hull in the tip and roll process?

[Skagitguy]

Looks pretty good Chuck. She is going to be a head turner for sure.
I know some things sound simple. Like, I painted the hull.
Well, if the boat is on a trailer, what is the process to sand and paint the hull in the tip and roll process?

Joe, You are going to need about three bags of popcorn for this one...here's my way...I just get under there and "kiss " sand it and then roll the paint on and take my tipping brush while on my back. Being i'am close to 73 i take a little nap for a while under there and when i wake up, ( just kidding ) i start to roll the paint roller and tip it. I paint everything i can see and then i hook the car up to the trailer and tie two of my boat lines to the cleats and tie those lines to my shelters legs ( the block on the shelter legs weight 95lb each ) and slowly pull the trailer out some from under the boat and then go back and put the foam blocks under the stern to be safe. I don't take it all of the way off only about 1/3 of the way or so. I just don't like getting under a boat on stands ! ! ! Let it dry overnight and crank it back all the way on in the AM. If i know i will be getting a new trailer i still paint it when it is on the old trailer as when i get the new one there might be a few area's where it was not painted, then i just go back and touch up going thru the same steps. This REAL old trailer i have has a lot of cross members in the stern so i just painted everything i could see and called it a day as being i was painting just about the same color of white it is hard to see any difference in the shades of white. It did have a new Gel coat on the hull not all that long ago...i think. When i get a new trailer i will do step two. I'am sure some of the other guys might have a better idea on doing it, but mine has work so far for me. Are you finish with your popcorn ?

[Bflaherty]

I have been thinking about how to handle the bottom on our boat... The pervious owner had it repainted years ago and for some, unknown, reason they decided to paint the bottom off-white rather than the correct bright red... Chris Craft installed lifting rings and I have used them before but never for more than an hour at most. Not ever long enough for paint to dry... Not sure if I want to climb under with it just hanging from 40 year old rings and the garage roof structure. But I also don't have room for the trailer to be sticking out the front...

Is there a safe, inexpensive, method for "blocking" the boat in such a way that the supports can be shuffled around to get paint on the entire bottom?

[Helmar]

Yes, finished with the popcorn....(Some place, Oz or something, someone said Popcorn is really bad now??, nutso)

Anyway, High School, had a car fall on me and made a mess out of my back, forever.

You need a three point system at least. Something that the front or rear only, drops, it will not spit out the other supports !!!!

It didn't have boat stands. My Son worked at Home Deskpot. (Big Orange ;-) and kept dragging home Dunnage, which is a lot of 2x4's. I just made a square block out of them which ended up 16" x 16" x 20 to 24" tall. Two under each rear corner, one under the keel....
Jack stands are a Don't even think about it.
One of those foam rectangle blocks would work cut into sections with a hand saw... Can't remember were I seen those and they were not too pricy.
The 2x4 stands can be just thrown into a fire and presto, just some nails or screws left over.

My

[Skagitguy]

Yes, finished with the popcorn....(Some place, Oz or something, someone said Popcorn is really bad now??, nutso)

Anyway, High School, had a car fall on me and made a mess out of my back, forever.

You need a three point system at least. Something that the front or rear only, drops, it will not spit out the other supports !!!!

It didn't have boat stands. My Son worked at Home Deskpot. (Big Orange ;-) and kept dragging home Dunnage, which is a lot of 2x4's. I just made a square block out of them which ended up 16" x 16" x 20 to 24" tall. Two under each rear corner, one under the keel....
Jack stands are a Don't even think about it.
One of those foam rectangle blocks would work cut into sections with a hand saw... Can't remember were I seen those and they were not too pricy.
The 2x4 stands can be just thrown into a fire and presto, just some nails or screws left over.

My

Joe, Go to Lowe's were they have some of those utility trailer for sale in the corner of the parking lot deliver on a semi truck and they have foam blocks they are real happy to get rid of. Rick Love told me about those. What about a motor hoist that you can snap the chain on to the tie downs bracket on the stern ? I always leave the winch strap crank lock when i have ONLY some of the stern overhanging. Oh btw ,screw the people with the popcorn bad stories ! I still like it !

[Helmar]

Ok look at Lowes for the foam blocks.

The real reason I was asking you these things Chuck is because I am More than sure that others might be wondering how painting the hull is done.
I know how and have several ways

So, Thanks for sharing for others to see Chuck....

[Skagitguy]

Ok look at Lowes for the foam blocks.

The real reason I was asking you these things Chuck is because I am More than sure that others might be wondering how painting the hull is done.
I know how and have several ways

So, Thanks for sharing for others to see Chuck....

Blocks....Look out in the parking lot at Lowe's. They are free ! They put them in between the trailers until they off loaded from the factory.

Painting the Hull ? I was kind of wondering about that question.

[TheBronze]

For the 404, I removed the trailer. It had a bad axle at the time and was just gong to be a pain to deal with.

I supported the hull with cinder blocks along the keel with wood on top. As soon as the stern was free, I set up two sets on each end and built a brace out of 2x4s with little wings on both sides. This prevented any rocking of the boat. I had to walk the trailer out and move blocks due to lots of cross members. Once clear, I supported the front in the same manner as the stern. Just a couple of 2x4s at angle to meet the bow. This turned out to be an inexpensive but very sturdy way to support the boat. She stayed this way all through out sanding of the hull to remove the awful peeling paint, and also during the painting of the topsides. Nice and stable and no worries while working.

That being said, I DID almost loose her when moving the blocks off the stern during painting. If I had to do it all over again, I'd just leave the last few inches of stern free and paint when on the trailer.