Skagit 20 - Alaskan Bulkhead

[bruceb]

Lance-
Coming right along ! Have been waiting for an update....
Guessing you attached a thin plywood extension to the underside of the existing top, a release material then about 3 layers of structural glass cloth in resin. What we're seeing there is a fairing compound on top of the cloth/resin structure ? Almost looks like a thickened epoxy ( the off-white area). If you used the ply, did you remove it or is it there for more strength ?
Keep up the fine work !
Another PM in your inbox....
bruceb

[Skagit Hideaway]

Fairing the new roof. The 3 holes (with surrounding bolt holes) are for the radar/gadget bracket.

[Frederic Lynes]

Aviation guys are super mechanics. Two strokes are like rubber bands to them. Just the same, I'd like a backup motor.

LOL! Never heard that one before. I was a UH-1H crewchief and worked on the Lycoming T53-L13; I can tell you that the 307 on our Rogue II is cake. In the end, though, an engine is an engine...Suck, Squeeze, Bang, Blow.

[Skagit Hideaway]

Final version of the roof - thinned. Pictured are the original "unoriginal", that stripped and extended, and the resized final version.

[Skagit Hideaway]

The fiberglass roof. Wood forms still in some places on the inside where I extended the length. The 3rd cross brace is just sitting there. It actually goes across the extended part. As is now, it weights 50lbs and is ca. 5.5" high at it's thickest part. I'm going to trim it down to 3". When finished it should weigh ca. 30lbs.

The boatyard view gives you hint of how the additions fit the original shape.

[Skagit Hideaway]

Aviation guys are super mechanics. Two strokes are like rubber bands to them. Just the same, I'd like a backup motor.

[TheBronze]

Interesting read. Thanks for the link.
I'd say that guy is nuts taking a skiff with a single engine 50-100 miles off shore. Quite the adventure though!

[Skagit Hideaway]

Sorry. Here's some text - ID: Brad - http://forum.woodenboat.com/archive/...p/t-11445.html

I plan to foam the extension. Once finished with sanding, I'm going to make a detailed plot of the hull/cabin for modeling/analysis purposes. It will be neat to see simulations of it's handling/ride characteristics in different seas, with various weight/power distributions, before making further commitments.

[TheBronze]

Looking good!

I'm pretty happy with the 4 pound I used in the 404. It still pounds, but I don't think that any weight of foam will prevent that! Flat bottom boats are, well, flat bottom boats!

Have you considered using pour foam to fill your extension? Seems like that would be a great way to add some rigidity to the structure once you are done with the bottom.

I looked at the link you provided but it was just pictures without a lot of write up. Is there a particular sub page you can reference?

[Skagit Hideaway]

This Skagit had impact damage, port side, in the area of the 3 mile head poop hole. Multiple cracks, 6 inches long, and the respective stringer broken in two. Must have hit a log or deadhead. I plan on increasing the foamed area in the cuddy cabin, perhaps angling the deck up the side of the hull, under the bunks/sink/cabinet.

[John Nelson]

My uniflite got cored at impact areas, submerged type. should have done a bigger area. I replaced bulkhead, floor and stringers with it too. I think a flat transom boat can go back together with all synthetic material= no more rot. I used 5 lb It was popular then.

[Skagit Hideaway]

Anyone consider or have experience using the 8lb foam for coring the hull? Hard as wood. I see that numerous modern boat builders (incl. flat bottom) use it. I was thinking of putting it under the fuel tanks and foreward, where the pounding happens. The added weight would balance that of the roof. As Chuck once posted, he didn't mind the pounding so much after foaming his Skagit hull with the 4lb stuff. BM (below) stresses the importance of making the impact zone as solid/sturdy/heavy as possible.

Brad Mongeau - http://lovesthesea.com/category.asp?category=Skiff - has some interesting insights on hull design and using flat hulled boats offshore. If you plan to ever spend more than an afternoon in your boat (like try to sleep in it overnight) you need a flat hull to have any chance of getting any rest...he says. Makes sense.

....progress.....almost finished sanding.

[Helmar]

I'm about 3/4 way finished with the first sanding of the hull bottom. As it turned out, hand sanding with 40 grit over a block of industrial felt has been the best way for me to sand the air-o-glide grooves. There are quite a few surface flaws in them that need patching up/sanding.....and some scrape/gash repairs that need redoing.......and, oh, you'll notice there is no bottom hull surface on the newly added transom extension, as yet. I plan to make a hull mold, the same way I molded the extension sides (see earlier posting), gluing thin plastic sheeting over select hull sections, laminating over that thick enough to be stable, pulling the sections off and fitting them together as needed.

Notice the sanding supervisor hard at work in the background.

Yes, I see the boss

Your at the most hardest part of the job right now. Getting sanded down and prepped for paint.
Boy, she is sure going to look nice for sure !!!!
Great job by the way..

[Skagit Hideaway]

I'm about 3/4 way finished with the first sanding of the hull bottom. As it turned out, hand sanding with 40 grit over a block of industrial felt has been the best way for me to sand the air-o-glide grooves. There are quite a few surface flaws in them that need patching up/sanding.....and some scrape/gash repairs that need redoing.......and, oh, you'll notice there is no bottom hull surface on the newly added transom extension, as yet. I plan to make a hull mold, the same way I molded the extension sides (see earlier posting), gluing thin plastic sheeting over select hull sections, laminating over that thick enough to be stable, pulling the sections off and fitting them together as needed.

Notice the sanding supervisor hard at work in the background.

[Skagit Hideaway]

Thanks guys. The anti-fouling paint has already been scraped off, so the white/red stuff sands off without too much trouble. I worked at the Edmonds Yacht Club (Madison Marine) out of high school, scraping/sanding/painting boats, so I know about the patience. Never ran accross any Skagits during that time though. I'm thinking similarly to Helmar on this one - fasten a form block to the sander.