Uh oh. 1958 Skagit 20 Hardtop

[Helmar]

One thing I find that is kind of sad, I seem to like working on them more than using them....Need to break that nasty habit as I have had license on the Uniflite for two years and she has been in the water only two times. Totally ready, just drop in the battery, fuel and go....

Looking good Kelly !!!

[Kelly]

getting down to the nitty gritty... hopefully T minus a few days until we fling primer. A little nervous at this point.

[Helmar]

getting down to the nitty gritty... hopefully T minus a few days until we fling primer. A little nervous at this point.

If your going to roll and tip, I have done it alone but its sure better with some help. If you using two part paint, almost need the help I found. Single part Petit paints most time.
I found the trick is to get the right amount of paint on, something your going to have to play with depending on the roller your using. I use the short nap roller, start in a maybe 2 foot area or less, lay down the paint say from the stearn and work my way forward tipping it. If you leave too much paint on, it will run sure as anything, not enough and the brush starts to drag and you will leave what I call hollows or light spots.
You will get to the point were you can feel it. If you have too much paint down, move it with the tip brush forward or the direction your going to paint next..
I will lay down two coats and if I can get away with it, three if needed. Some times if I have runs that need sanded out, just more trying time but take those out ever so careful.
On bigger areas, you can almost block sand them out.

It kind of depends on the job and how its coming out and what my goal is. If its a 20-20 paint job, you will see some brush marks (20-20 is twenty feet away and 20mph and if I am looking to get her like it was shot with a spray gun, then I go for the third coat, let it cure, then wet and dry sand her smooth, 3M rubbing compound and then 3M polishing compound or I think what they call the machine compound. They have a 3 stage kit of the stuff if I go looking for it.
Anyway using that three step thing from 3M seems to do a better and longer lasting job then using the teflon.

You will find All kinds of wifes tales about different waxes and buffing but the thing I know of sure, its Hard work so make sure you have a good buffer and pads. I would go hit up a detail shop and see what they use, then maybe another detail shop to kind of get a idea on what is being used now. Paint is pretty much paint in the concept your wanting to protect it as long as you can.
For me, I use the 3M kit and just have the customer use whatever wax they tend to like. Don't waste your time with something that is just wipe on and off, something you can put down with the buffer that gets Into the paint is the way I would do it to make it last as long as possible.

Sorry, not sure how I got so far off the paint process, I guess its because I know you have put a lot of work into her and want her nice looking so, that is my

I might do a quick write up on why you don't see me putting much on Facebook. Main reason, This is Ours, Its not going anywhere and will always be here.

[Kelly]

Good info, thanks. The paint on the hull will be sprayed on as will the primer. The insides will be brushed on and tip and rolled where smoothness counts.
I've been taking almost all my weekends since I brought her back home and nearly every free hour during the work week to get her to this point. It's been hell working the gelcoat cracks.. there were just so many it was ridiculous. Almost the entire boat was sanded by hand which is just plain crazy. A boat shop would've just stripped the gelcoat and started over but it is what it is.

[Kelly]

The beginning of the end.

[Helmar]

The beginning of the end.

She is getting closer Looking good Kelly

[Kelly]

thanks. Hitting the high spots and knocking them down. Filling the remaining 2,432 pin holes...
slinging more primer tomorrow.

[Kelly]

Putting in some overtime. Ever sling primer in 100 degree weather? Yeah I don't recommend it either!

[Helmar]

Putting in some overtime. Ever sling primer in 100 degree weather? Yeah I don't recommend it either!

Pretty much dry before it hits has been my experience. I can't do much of anything in this heat as the sweat gets on my projects ;-/

[Helmar]

I might have done it again.

You need to make sure the project is at or below 70 degrees, take the primer inside were its cool, don't leave it outside, do that process before the heat of the day.
Problem is, you can Cut the primer with whatever it says to use, But, that also makes it Thinner so you have to do it again to make the primer do its job, which is filling little tiny pin holes and such.

Its up to 94 down here and I had to pull all of Eds paint and primer into the house to keep it cool as the shop normally will get up to 5+ more degrees with that metal roof.
In the winter months, I put all that paint, primer and other products into the heated area as so no freezing. Always stir that stuff until your arm or hand gets tired, pulling the paint from the bottom of the can to assure its mixed up real good. Some stuff, not good to shake and get air in, like varnish for instance.
You probably already know most of what I am telling you but hey, reminders never hurt.
Carry on Men . She will look Beautiful. Remember, 99% of the paint job is in the prep work. If you can see it or feel it, fill it or fix it.

Helmar

[Kelly]

Well another deadline about to be missed. Was hoping for LaConner this year but I don't think this boat will make it.
Hoping my Dad sticks around long enough for him to go cruising in it. That's the ultimate goal.

[Kelly]

More work completed last week. I've already gone through a gallon and a half of primer. Lots of block sanding done and just a little more to do. Paint is on the horizon... fingers crossed.

[Kelly]

total rebuild on the bow eye hole. Lots of filling, sanding and filing to get it right.

[Kelly]

The gelcoat on the hatch was completely gone on the top where the sun beat the gel out of it.
Used 105/206 with 406 filler to add strength and act as a good base for primer. It worked out well.

[Kelly]

only a few more areas to smooth out and she's ready for paint.