New member from Port Angeles, WA.

[Deacon]

Hello Everyone,

My name is Paul, I am from Port Angeles, Wa. I recently purchased a "project" boat to work on for the next year or two (famous last words right). My baby is a 1969 Whitcraft, depending on who you talk to it's either a Coastal Cruiser or a houseboat. . She's 37' long. V Hull, fiberglass.

She's in rough condition and I have to replace the entire power plant and drive line but for what I got her for it's still a great deal.

I am hoping to get some advice and instruction about my rebuild, this is my first boat, done several cars and motorcycles.

She originally had a 454 V8 with a V drive, I have to decide what to put back into her for power. They sealed the hull where it used to have the prop shaft etc. I have had several people tell me to go with outboards but I understand that greatly decreases the value.

So looking forward to making some friends and getting good advice. Thanks! Anyone else have a Whitcraft?

[John Berg]

Welcome aboard

Paul, You picked the right club for info. I still wonder how these people learn and retain so much information. Is this the boat that was on Craigslist for a grand? Loved that boat. The first thing everybody is going to want to see is pictures. Lots of pictures. Have fun, John

[Lootas1]

Welcome Paul. Since you've done some other restorations, you do understand that the project won't be a year or two. It just goes on and on until you find something new and different to tackle. Anyway, it is some fun and I'd suggest you power it with what you want for power unless it is your hope to make money on the project. No doubt you are right it would be worth more to restore it with all orignal parts. Like John, we enjoy pics and, while I don't know of any Whitcrafts in the club, there is bound to be some members who have some experience with them and lots of members who know how to do other parts of boat restoration.
Jerry

[Helmar]

Hello Everyone,

My name is Paul, I am from Port Angeles, Wa. I recently purchased a "project" boat to work on for the next year or two (famous last words right). My baby is a 1969 Whitcraft, depending on who you talk to it's either a Coastal Cruiser or a houseboat. . She's 37' long. V Hull, fiberglass.

She's in rough condition and I have to replace the entire power plant and drive line but for what I got her for it's still a great deal.

I am hoping to get some advice and instruction about my rebuild, this is my first boat, done several cars and motorcycles.

She originally had a 454 V8 with a V drive, I have to decide what to put back into her for power. They sealed the hull where it used to have the prop shaft etc. I have had several people tell me to go with outboards but I understand that greatly decreases the value.

So looking forward to making some friends and getting good advice. Thanks! Anyone else have a Whitcraft?

Welcome Paul.
There area few of us on this side that live down from you.
Need pictures to share so we all know what your working on.
Just start a new post with Whitcraft and add some pictures.:TakePicture1::TakePicture1:
I ams sure you will find some help as there are a fair amount of us that do this kind of work for a living and restores out own boats.

[Tim_Mattson]

Paul,
You didn`t specify the goal or use you forsee.....
The hull will need either a huge OB or an adequate inboard of at least 135 hp to Plane.
If speed not important,look for a smaller outboard bracket/motor.
Outboards would be easier to rig once a bracket is in place.The Inboard option needs alot of rigging ,blower for exhausting fumes,marinized engine accessories, Type B fuel hoses,on and on.
The outboard doesn`t need a fan running before you turn the key and you don`t have the shaft going thru your bottom with packing gland seal to fail or need service.
An outboard can be simple,with a rudder like a sailboat or remote steering to a helm.
Rule of thumb on Lake Union(Houseboats now...) was one HALF HP per Foot of Hull as a minimum.
A lowly 5 hp will push it,just not into the wind or very fast.
A Honda 4 stroke with correct propellor would be quiet,smooth and fuel efficient.A 25 hp would move it ok,bigger will need a tougher bracket.
Twins would make docking easier.
Some on Lake Union remove the set-up you need after they spend enough time moored ....then they are a floating home with no need to travel.
Or watch for someone re-powering and offer to remove it......
Now for someone to talk up a nice Inboard option......other than a 454 with 20 Gallon/hour consumption.
Do you want to fill it for that type of consumption or?
Tim M

[Bflaherty]

Welcome to the club!!!

I would agree with Tim about outboards if it is indeed a "houseboat" however, if its a coastal cruiser (the original 454 inboard would indicate more than just a houseboat) then I would suggest you go with an inboard option again. The big advantage to an inboard is cost!! Inboards are 75% the same as their automotive counterparts, with the differences being cooling systems, exhaust, intake manifolds and if it is set up for "marine rotation" then there are some internals that have to be changed as well. BUT you can get marine transmission that are setup for standard "automotive" rotation and then you can get an old motor from a wrecking yard, slap a marine intake (if needed their typical lower profile to fit under the decks) marine exhause and a raw water pump for cooling and away you go!!! Remember if you don't want to go fast but rather efficient then you don't have to get a big gas swallowing 454 V8, you can always go with a smaller V6 or even a little Yanmar I4 diesel...

Personally I am huge inboard fan because I know how they work and how to keep them working... I have a 2-stroke outboard that I have learned to work on the hard way (blew it up twice)... You can get a 4-stroke outboard (like Time suggested) which are basicaly like working on any inboard but a little easier since it hangs out in the open. BUT a 4-stroke outboard can get real expensive in a hurry!!! With Washington moving toward a complete ban on 2-stroke motors the 4-strokes are getting harder and harder to find in good used condition for a decent price...

Ultimately, you should power it with whatever option you are most comfortable with... Each option has equal pros and cons and probably equal costs versus performance... If your planning to maintain the boat yourself (which it sounds like your capable of) then make sure you pick a powerplant that you wouldn't mind working on...

Happy motoring!!!
:boater1:

[Tim_Mattson]

Brian,
I knew that was coming.....nicely done.
Best to shoot for how the boat will be used 98% of the time as a goal ,with the level of comfort and budget being balanced.......
The outboard option will never reach the hulls full potential without going insane on cost(and gas too) so look high and low for the "Take-out " package from a similar vessel but do choose from makes not so rare......
The blocks common to cars are great when not being turned backwards(that means starters and other items special to the application).
The bigger hull will need Heating so the inboard will offer that too.Red Dots and even just coiled heater hose will take it from your inboard and share it with the inside.
I now cast my vote for the Inboard....
TimM

[Tim McCrain]

Tim,

The marinized automotive engines use a lot of specialty parts not just due to reverse rotation, but for spark supression and fuel containment. The starters, distributor, alternator, etc. are all equipped with spark supression, the carbs are designed to drain excess fuel from flooding into the engine instead of into the bilge and the mechanical fuel pumps are designed, in case of a diaphram rupture, to either catch excess fuel in a sight bowl or dump it into the carb where it ends up in the engine. And the water pumps are made with heavy duty corrosion resistant innards. A lot of the intake manifolds are different internally and externally (fittings) also. I've read that even the cooling passages in the blocks are different but have also read that this isn't true. I've also read that Mercruisers only used the best GM components, which meant forged cranks and pistons. The cams are ground for marine use and the timing gear sets are heavy duty instead of the smaller nylon gear teeth used for noise reduction in cars.