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Uh oh. 1958 Skagit 20 Hardtop

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  • Kelly
    replied
    Test fitting the bridge and hatch before painting.

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  • Kelly
    replied
    Thanks man. It's been a crazy journey. Some days I just want to say F-it, it's good enough. Then I argue with myself and say why put all that money into it to just come up short?
    At the end of the day it's my best effort, and that still may result in a 20/20 boat.

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  • sclapsaddle
    replied
    Looking Good! I like what you are doing. I'm not painting my boat exterior except the bottom anytime soon due to thats my day job. I feel for you repairing all the cracks and voids. It is true the more you sand the nicer the end result, but sometimes it not worth the extra work, I like Helmars standard of 20 ft 20 mph looks good.

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  • Kelly
    replied

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  • Kelly
    replied
    The former name that was long gone when I got her, won't go away!
    Attached Files
    Last edited by Kelly; 08-24-2018, 07:48 AM.

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  • Kelly
    replied
    I tried contacting him to buy one but he never responded. I like what he did with it.
    No matter now, this thing is strong!

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  • Helmar
    replied
    Originally posted by Kelly View Post
    It may be difficult to tell by these photos, but this piece had just as many, if not more, cracks in the gelcoat than the entire boat! What a pain. More sanding on some high spots to do still.
    Also, a small change to the original design. Added cam and cloth build up on the insides of the frame. This will serve two purposes: 1) strength overall and reduce surface cracking from the weight of the hardtop and 2) it will have a finished look on the inside versus the roving look. It is fact the factory did finish work like this on atleast one other Skagit, the Saratogan hull #3. Hull #2 has the roving look.
    Better pics when I'm finished.
    Those always take a beating some how. I remember Kelly at Fiberglassics created a knee for his to help support it. Having it bolted to the hard top would also make the whole thing more solid.

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  • Kelly
    replied
    It may be difficult to tell by these photos, but this piece had just as many, if not more, cracks in the gelcoat than the entire boat! What a pain. More sanding on some high spots to do still.
    Also, a small change to the original design. Added csm and cloth build up on the insides of the frame. This will serve two purposes: 1) strength overall and reduce surface cracking from the weight of the hardtop and 2) it will have a finished look on the inside versus the roving look. It is fact the factory did finish work like this on atleast one other Skagit, the Saratogan hull #3. Hull #2 has the roving look.
    Better pics when I'm finished.
    Last edited by Kelly; 08-24-2018, 07:40 AM.

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  • Kelly
    replied
    only a few more areas to smooth out and she's ready for paint.

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  • Kelly
    replied
    The gelcoat on the hatch was completely gone on the top where the sun beat the gel out of it.
    Used 105/206 with 406 filler to add strength and act as a good base for primer. It worked out well.
    No gelcoat left oin the hatch or hatch mount.
    Last edited by Kelly; 09-10-2018, 06:52 PM.

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  • Kelly
    replied
    total rebuild on the bow eye hole. Lots of filling, sanding and filing to get it right.

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  • Kelly
    replied
    More work completed last week. I've already gone through a gallon and a half of primer. Lots of block sanding done and just a little more to do. Paint is on the horizon... fingers crossed.
    Knocking down the high spots. More sanding...
    Last edited by Kelly; 08-24-2018, 05:25 AM.

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  • Kelly
    replied
    Well another deadline about to be missed. Was hoping for LaConner this year but I don't think this boat will make it.
    Hoping my Dad sticks around long enough for him to go cruising in it. That's the ultimate goal.

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  • Helmar
    replied
    Originally posted by Kelly View Post
    I might have done it again.
    You need to make sure the project is at or below 70 degrees, take the primer inside were its cool, don't leave it outside, do that process before the heat of the day.
    Problem is, you can Cut the primer with whatever it says to use, But, that also makes it Thinner so you have to do it again to make the primer do its job, which is filling little tiny pin holes and such.

    Its up to 94 down here and I had to pull all of Eds paint and primer into the house to keep it cool as the shop normally will get up to 5+ more degrees with that metal roof.
    In the winter months, I put all that paint, primer and other products into the heated area as so no freezing. Always stir that stuff until your arm or hand gets tired, pulling the paint from the bottom of the can to assure its mixed up real good. Some stuff, not good to shake and get air in, like varnish for instance.
    You probably already know most of what I am telling you but hey, reminders never hurt.
    Carry on Men . She will look Beautiful. Remember, 99% of the paint job is in the prep work. If you can see it or feel it, fill it or fix it.

    Helmar

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  • Helmar
    replied
    Originally posted by Kelly View Post
    Putting in some overtime. Ever sling primer in 100 degree weather? Yeah I don't recommend it either!
    Pretty much dry before it hits has been my experience. I can't do much of anything in this heat as the sweat gets on my projects ;-/

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