Uh oh. 1958 Skagit 20 Hardtop

[Kelly]

Got the boat sanded again. Going back to the fairing stage, this time with "total fair" by Total Boat. Essentially going to use it on the entire boat and then sand again. Then primer, then sand again.

[Kelly]

Thanks man. If I cleaned out the entire shop I could fit all of my boats plus have room for yours. If you ever need to do some inside work, let me know it only takes a minute to move the 1947 GI flatbed truck.

[sclapsaddle]

I'm glad your still at it! Working on these things outside isn't the best idea, nice to have access to a shop, wish I did too..

[Kelly]

**Thread update**
Did some editing on this entire thread. I didn't like the direction it was going for a bit soooo....

Back at it. Updates include:
- reloaded the boat on the trailer and moved it to my in-laws shop
- removed the trailer and started sanding again
- prepped the work space to accommodate all aspects of the remaining to do list (in-law has way better tooling than I do)
- chrome parts debacle sorted and in hand
- double axle trailer purchased (used) and will require attention

more as I think on it...

[Helmar]

That looks pretty sweet both ways.

[Kelly]

thanks Pat.

Nothing new in the past few days. Sanding.
I did modify one of my custom steering wheel center caps to fit in the original groove to see how it looked. I like both ways so we'll see.

[pats]

Good job, that sure looks nice!
I hope my project turns out that good.

[Kelly]

We'll it's been nearly a week since spraying. I'm attempting to stay on track though I'm in lane 4 now instead of 1...still in the race though.

Today was take a break from the sanding and painting woes. So to re-energize my motivation I decided to clean my shop and workspace first, then vacuum all of the dust from the inside of the boat. Too much clutter and chaos makes my head hurt.

I decided to put the hatch cover and bridge back on temporarily and drill 4 tack holes to hang the helm and water tank. I figured it was a good time to check the steering wheel height and overall position of the boxes.
The steering wheel in the picture is the eBay purchase from last year. It's a correct 1958 Wilcox Crittenden that Skagit liked to use. My creation of a center cap for the wheel is temporarily installed also.

Tomorrow's goal will be to heat the bottom of the hull and glass in the toilet thru-hull fitting hole. The inside was done already, but the outside needs to be sanded again due to over spray. We'll see if I get to it.

[Kelly]

The Interlux tech is the one that told me about what would happen when the paint is sanded.
As far as your boat (and others) I enjoy seeing these classics going back on the water at all stages from original to modified.

[sclapsaddle]

Most automotive paints have different speed hardner’s, reducers and accelerators and can be sprayed down into the 40’s, not ideal though and the paint will not lay down as well as when 70’s degrees. I struggle with temperature when painting after season changes, I don’t have a heated booth, but the shop is heated and the booth will quickly move all that warm air out of the shop, and runs happen sometimes in the winter before I compensate with lighter coats, more flash time between coats, etc 80’s summer and maybe 60 in dead of winter if I’m lucky. Interesting about the maintenance free not being able to sand and buffed. Most auto paints can be sanded and buffed and will continue to get harder for close to a year after it is sprayed, but doesn’t necessarily need to be polished or buffed unless scratched and scuffed from washing dirt off. The fluid control knob on the back of the gun can be turned in to reduce the amount of paint coming out. Also hopefully you have pressure regulator at the gun with a gauge. Recommended pleasure is quite higher at the the point the hose is plugged to compare with where the gun is plugged in to the hose. If it makes you feel any better I’m not painting my boat, just a little polishing the old paint job I got it with, so it’s not going to look anything special.

[sclapsaddle]

Sorry to hear kelly, spraying paint is not easy! Any specific questions or issues your having? I have never sprayed "marine" paint but have been painting cars for 20 years. There are a ton of variables that can affect the paint. its very easy to be overly critical as you have been closer to the boat then you ever will again.

[Kelly]

That is a good looking 57 for sure.

2d coat wasn't good. Starting over.

[Helmar]

We'll see how it all plays out in the end but the Interlux & Awlgrip paints are supposed to be maintenance free whereas gelcoat fades and requires buffing in the long run.

I keep forgetting all the advancements they have made with Paints..
They quit using Emoron paints due to how toxic is was but I proved how good that paint was back in the truck driving days. I painted my Peterbuilt 359L with that after I ran into a sand storm coming west on Interstate 10. Rocks would Bounce off that paint.

Now they have paints that do the same thing and I know Interlux and Awlgrip have made some pretty good advancements to compete with the auto industry's paints.

I remember all the work Doug Griffith had done on his 20 Skagit, 3D's and it turned out Fabulous..
9145_AMERICANLAKEDOUGPENNYSPEED.jpg

[Kelly]

We'll see how it all plays out in the end but the Interlux & Awlgrip paints are supposed to be maintenance free whereas gelcoat fades and requires buffing in the long run.

[Helmar]

Back at it...sanding the first coat. Started with 400g but the runs and sags took forever to sand out so made the switch to 320g. Interlux (Perfection) recommends either grit so it should be fine. The paint loads up quickly on the sandpaper but once it grabs it's good to go.
Also raised the boat about 2 feet higher in hopes of achieving better spraying angles and lighting on the hull. It took me about an hour to get the height right, it's a little nerve rattling by yourself.

Yes, jacking up the boat alone is always nerve racking. Sounds like you should have just did a Tip and Roll with Gelcoat. Sand, polish after its on too.