69 Johnson 115hp

[Karl]

My 69 Johnson 115hp has always been hard to start. I usually need about 3 or 4 squirts of starting fluid and about 10 cranks to get it started. Then after it warms up, it is good to start again that day.

Last weekend, it took about a 1/2 a can of starting fluid get going the first time. It started up again later that day, but then I couldn't get it to go at all on Sat. The starter pops up and cranks it really good, but it doesn't seam to have any spark.

I've taken the spark plugs off and cleaned them. (they were oily, so they must have been getting fuel)

Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Karl

[ChuckB]

Karl;
If it has taken that much starting fluid to start it before, I'd first check compression. You may not have enough. If you don't have spark, then you need to pull the flywheel off to check the point sets under the large distributor cap. Check your wires as well.
Those are good places to start. ChuckB

[McSkagit Tim Jones]

69 Johnson 115 hard starting

I had a 69 Johnson 115 that I bought new on a 15 foot Glaspar. I had three pulse pack failures that left me stranded on Lake Washington (three times).
Sold the boat and motor six months later. Easy fix!

The 1969 V-4 was the first model without the belt driven distributor. The ignition system consists of three components:

Magnetic triggers located under flywheel, the capacitive discharge unit (pulse pack) and the individual spark coils. Unlikely all coils woud fail together, but be sure to check the high tension plug wires for salt. Wipe the wires and boots down with silicone dielectric grease. SO it's either the pulse pack or the triggers.

Spark plugs! Back in 69, we were running surface gap spark plugs. Surface gaps were supposed to eliminate fouling.
They did foul, however, especially if the gas/oil ratio was off (too much oil) or I did a lot of slow speed running. The plugs can look okay, but they won't fire. I always carried a spare set of plugs and installed them at the first sign of hard starting.

You can test the ignition system by removing all spark plugs. Install one plug in a spark plug wire (boot). Hold the plug base up to a head bolt and have someone crank the engine. May want to hold the spark plug with an insulated pliers. Beware the flywheel! Use a new spark plug if possible.... The capacitive discharge ignition is fairly potent when working correctly.

I've also seen a few ignition switches short out.......

Good luck,
Tim

[Karl]

Thanks

Thanks,

Great suggestions.

Karl

[Tim_Mattson]

Karl,
Try Fogging oil as your starting fluid.If it doesn`t go off,then at least it`s ready to store.....the propellant in it makes an engine run and is my way to test if carbs are working.They will start with NO CARB on it once sprayed inside.
The Fogging Oil really helps revive a motor has been fogged or has sat awhile as it breaks down the old dried stuff ,but also has the flammable vapor.
The choke has to close fully ,or it won`t do it`s thing.....pull the baffle and make sure the thing is fully closed when applied.
I`m used to a little newer V-4 s but also have seen the manual choke sometimes has two positions,one of which makes the remote choke not work as good.
The other thing on OMC (and most motors) is they have an index line or two on the carb cam of which one is your actual starting position.This is more for the advancing of timing from the low idle setting to a faster position needed to get it to really kick off.The little roller wheel is what you look for ,lined up with an index when idle handle is lifted partially.
Hope compression is still above 100 or so,once below that point ,only little ones will keep going.
Start with compression test ,then fix spark before trying the above.
With all plugs out ,you may get more spark than when they are all in,thus slowing down actual rpm.With all plugs in and a plug or two in the wires ,you should have a strong spark that will jump say 1/2`` to ground.
I also borrow or use a spare control with correct harness to eliminate the key and harness before you throw $ at the pack,ignition stuff.
TimM

[Karl]

Throttle cable length?

I know that bigger isn't always better! So, how would I find out how long my throttle cable should be for my 18ft GlassCraft? It currently coils around under the splash well.

Thanks,

Karl

[Tim_Mattson]

Cable Length

Karl,
You measure from the general shiftbox location to the transom,then measure from the transom to the center of the motor and simple add the two numbers,plus 2` more feet so you have a nice lazy loop that will stay relaxed as you go from hard left to hard right.
I`d guess it will be 14`-16 feet.
TM

[Karl]

Tim,

Thanks, you've been a great source. Do you have to buy the cables to the exact length or can I cut it myself?

Karl

[Tim_Mattson]

Not possible to cut these.Your goal is no loop less than 16` Diameter,so you could subtract a foot if it stays within this number but round up when in doubt.
An old cable can be used to figure it out by starting at the engine,making first a 2` loop and threading thru the rubber splashwell boot and then seeing how much more you need to hit the box.
Now some older controls do use a allen screw to a bare strand of SS cable so make sure what both ends look like before buying.
Forgot yours was older than most of my post 1973 motors.....
Newer style has a SS blade with a hole for the 3/8`s pin in the box and then a thumscrew wheel at the motor end.Some require a clip to capture to the linkage,others have a stud with a locknut.
TM